Monday, 4 November 2013

Smokehouse - Canonbury Road, N1

I'm in two minds about the Smokehouse; I really did enjoy my food but eating it was a bit of an ordeal.  I love an open kitchen, probably more than most, but for the love of god do not sit a table next to the pass.

I spent most of the short time we were sat down with sweat dripping down the right side of my head.  On top of that was the vague sense of violation as waiting staff, their presence felt if not seen, hovered behind me...

Had the food not been so good I'd probably never have bothered to write this up.  My starter of the brisket roll with gochujang mayo was very cleverly done.  The fist sized croquette was perfectly coated in a crisp shell of crumb that split to reveal tender but deliciously smokey brisket and sauce inside.

The smoked pork rib eye was a delight as well.  Fantastically cooked, deep smoke flavours, rich, and meaty the pork served on top of fresh garden peas interspersed with little nuggets of lardo and pancetta for an extra savoury kick.

Burnt leeks with duck egg, girolles, and parmesan looked incredibly good but I wasn't quick enough to get a try.  The peppered ox-cheek with cauliflower cheese and gravy was pretty enjoyable as well but could have done with more of that delicious sauce.

Service was pretty good it has to be said; our waiter at one point set himself on fire in what I like to think was a moment of solidarity with my situation.

Actually fuck it...  I'd definitely go back, probably in daylight so I could get some decent photos, but next time I'd ask to be sat away from the pass.  If you like meat and you like smoke you are most likely in for a treat.

Square Meal

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